The Evolution of the Goan Carnival

By Nomratha Fernandes
Posted on 2009-02-20
The word carnival comes from the old Latin expression ‘carne vale’, which literally translates to mean ‘farewell to meat’, implying that those were the last days one could eat meat before the fasting of Lent began.
The carnival has its origins in the Roman pagan festival of Saturnalia, which saw processions and merry-making all across the Roman Empire. This eventually led to the Catholic three-day concentrated indulgence of festivity and merry-making right before entering the chaste season of lent. It was celebrated in Catholic dominated parts of Europe and it carried over its merriment to many a European colonies. So as we all know it was brought to Goa by the Portuguese.
The carnival as we now know it is a treat to the senses. Let us furnish ourselves with a little bit of Goan carnival history, the good and the not-so-good. Talking to a sizable amount of middle-aged persons, I surprisingly learnt that the carnival was not like it is today. The carnival was a simple affair. It was more of a mood then a celebration. If one felt like participating, one did, and if not then one would retreat to the confines of ones home and ignore it all.
The carnival is actually not a pre-lentil Catholic festival and though it is associated with the Catholic religion, it is actually not part of it. The Catholic Church in Goa doesn’t approve of its celebrations, especially post-Portuguese carnival celebration with its arguable display of debaucheries. But nonetheless the locals and the Portuguese aristocracy sprightly participated in it with lots of fervour. Young people swarmed the streets throwing powder, sand, stones, applying colour on each other and playing games.
Each vado would gather a bunch of young people and would have a competition with another vado. It was all very friendly in nature. At the village level, mainly in the southern taluka of Salcette, a special carnival tiatr would take place and sometimes these taitrist troupes would travel to Bardez or Tiswadi. Theses plays comprised of both Hindu and Catholic participants. The climax of the celebration to most of the ruling Portuguese aristocracy was the carnival ball, which comprised of the Portuguese and Goan high class. During this dance it is said that the Portuguese Governor’s wife would dance with anyone who requested her too.
After the Portuguese left in 1961, the floats were introduced to the Goan carnival, but it still wasn’t commercial or run by the government. Horse-carriages, which were very much present in Panaji then, pulled these giant floats. Mapusa and Margao also saw their float parades and the Madgaonkars celebrated the festival of fans. The entire planning was very neighbourly in nature. Donations and collections were made from various places in the main cities of Goa and local businessmen sponsored some of the money or the material needed for the floats. The performers too whether it be dancers, musicians, etc, were all voluntary and were not in it for monetary results. Its presentation too was straightforward and light with small groups of people greeting these floats.
The carnival committee formed by the government began in the 1980s when the Tourism Department decided to use this celebration as a means to attract tourists. Now the government paid for everything and one could suddenly see logos of certain shops in and around Panaji on the carnival floats. Also keeping in mind the carnival in Brazil, Vasco Alvares introduced King Momo, who has now become a carnival must. Besides King Momo the introduction of special carnival dancers, vintage cars, bigger and brighter floats, louder recorded music, advertising on a large scale and at the same time a lot of vices entered the Goan carnival. Drugs, drinks and skimpy clothes saw its entry, which received heavy disapproval of the church.
Of course there still was a little bit of the unadulterated Goan carnival but it just seemed to be in the memories of the older generation and in their tales. The Goan carnival is still very much alive in spirit, in all us Goans. Revival and sustenance of its original celebrations should definitely be a priority. With historical facts and a throw-in of words from those who know and those who were there, we shall now see what everyone has to say about how the carnival has changed and what they feel about it.